BROPHY BROS. VENTURA
Crab cakes were the top seller for Clyde’s Restaurant Group that operates about a dozen
restaurants in the Washington region, but the chain decided to yank them off the menu
this summer after crab prices tripled.
Bart Farrell, the vice president of food and beverage for the company, said, “We couldn’t
justify the price that we would have had to charge…We’re already absorbing high prices
across the board on all food items, but when you’re talking about a 300% increase on
your No. 1 item, there’s just no way that that has any sustainability.”
The prices have skyrocketed due to a shortage of blue crabs in the Chesapeake Bay that
is something of a mystery. A winter dredge survey showed that the overall population
fell from 405 million in 2020 to 282 million in 2021, driven largely by a sharp drop in
the number of juvenile crabs. While it’s normal for the blue crab population to fluctuate
from year to year, no one is certain what caused this year’s steep decline.
Bill Sieling, executive vice president of the Chesapeake Bay Seafood Industries
Association, however, sees an easy explanation: “There’s good years and bad years.
There’s no exposé to be found, and there’s no evil person behind this. Crabs are scarce
this year because crabs periodically have been scarce, and prices are high because
everybody wants to buy crabmeat here.”
In Maryland, where the blue crab is the official state crustacean, many are simply doing
without what has become a high-end luxury food they cannot afford this year.
Bill Paulshock, the owner of Bill’s Seafood and Catering Co. in Perry Hall, Md. said,
“Listen, this affects everyone. Right now, a bushel of crabs is about $75 to $100 more
than they were this time last year. We’re really giving the jumbo lump away at cost.” But
he says he is keeping it on his menu even though it’s not a moneymaker for one reason:
“I’m not going to let one slack year make me lose my customers.”
Paulshock also has no doubt the crab population will improve. “Do I think they’re going
to come back? A hundred percent. In the Chesapeake Bay they are doing more things to
keep it cleaner, it’s a perfect environment for them…It’s just Mother Nature, the way the
wind blows. If we get the right wind and the right current, this bay will be loaded with
them.”
So, while it was a difficult decision for Bart Farrell to pull the top-selling item from the
menu at Clyde’s restaurants, he says, “We just felt the time was right.” And so far the
reaction from diners has been generally positive. “We’ve put a little blurb on our menu
indicating the reason for it...the conservation and the cost. And it’s helped that our
corporate chef came up with something new, a great shrimp-cake recipe,” said Farrel.
BROPHY BROS. VENTURA
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BROPHY BROS. VENTURA