January 1, 2022
First, there was the fruited sour beer. Then, the milkshake IPA. Today, we greet the smoothie sour beer. This trending brew is being fully embraced by some adventurous producers from Eugene, Oregon to Fargo, North Dakota, but perhaps the most important thing the smoothie sour is doing is pushing boundaries within beer making. “It’s taking the expectations and direction of beer in completely new ways, as well as the desire to use real ingredients to create flavors that are genuine and noticeable as such, as opposed to using flavorings,” says Dan Russo, Director of Brewing Operations at the Oakshire Brewing in Eugene. The new smoothie sours tend to come in bright colors, looking more like something the kids in Hook ate than a beer. Drekker Brewing out of Fargo has become an ambassador of the style. The brewery makes them in all shapes and sizes, from pineapple, guava, and passionfruit to a sour that’s designed to taste like a PB&J. The Coconut Key Lime Pie beer blends lime, coconut, banana, granola, lactose, cream cheese, and vanilla. In short, when Drekker is short on brewing supplies, what it adds to the grocery list is not very common. Making a smoothie sour can be quite challenging, reports Russ. Fermenting at such a high gravity with more acidity can be tough on yeast. There’s a balancing act, too, with so many ingredients involved. And, because much of this is new, there’s no real reference point. The processing of weird ingredients for the first time is always a challenge as well,” Russo admits. “There are no instructions on the internet on how to add 200 pounds of no-bake cheesecake mix to a beer. So you end up going through some trial and error. Usually it ends up working out OK. It’s definitely always a wild ride, but once you get it right with any of the weird ingredients, then the next time you go to do it it ends up being a piece of cake — sometimes literally.” This trend, which is the continuation of an arc that began about a decade ago when goses and kettle sours grew in popularity alongside fruit-infused beers, reportedly draws on the addition of culinary ingredients to make beers that have as much bite as they do body. This sub-category of beer has grown in popularity because consumers have started to appreciate, rather than fear, the different kinds of flavors found in hazy beer and unfiltered natural wine without being put off by drinks having a cloudy appearance. This new epicurean-influenced beer style has started trending in the US and has been predicted to expand more broadly. Sam Johnson, who manages the two Seattle outposts for Great Notion, claims the smoothe sour beers have been enormously popular since the company started brewing them a couple of months ago.